Article by Rob Kidd | Photography by Rob Kidd | Published October 11, 2024
Where Indonesian Heritage Meets Contemporary Mayfair
In London’s Mayfair, where every street seems to whisper of quiet luxury and old-school tradition, Toba offers something completely different: a taste of Indonesia that is both rich in heritage and refreshingly contemporary. This is a restaurant that walks the fine line between authenticity and accessibility, a balancing act that reflects the broader challenge of introducing Indonesian cuisine to a British audience. Indonesia, an archipelago of over 17,000 islands, is a country with a history as complex as its cuisine. Unlike India, Malaysia, or Hong Kong—nations whose food has found a home in the UK thanks to their colonial ties to Britain—Indonesia's culinary influence is less prominent here.
The Dutch, not the British, were the colonizers, and as a result, Indonesian food is more familiar in the Netherlands than on these shores (and indeed, anywhere else). The rarity of Indonesian restaurants in London reflects this historical quirk, but it also presents an opportunity—one that Toba has embraced with quiet confidence. The question for any Indonesian restaurant in the UK is not just how to stay true to the bold, often fiery flavors that define the cuisine, but also how to make these flavors resonate with a British audience more accustomed to the softer, sweeter notes of Thai and Vietnamese dishes. Toba approaches this challenge with care, offering a menu rooted in tradition but also attuned to the expectations of its diners.
Texture and Flavor: Exploring Toba’s Indonesian Classics
We started our meal with Martabak Telor, a dish that is as much about texture as it is about flavor. The crisp, flaky pastry gave way to a filling of minced meat and spices that felt hearty and familiar, yet subtly different. There was a gentle warmth to the spices—a reminder of the Indonesian palate’s love for heat, but tempered in a way that invites rather than intimidates. The Sate Ayam followed—skewers of grilled chicken served with a peanut sauce that was both rich and balanced. It’s a dish that could easily have been too sweet or too heavy, but Toba strikes the right note, allowing the chicken to shine without being overshadowed by the sauce. It’s a well surprise to the British palate more used to a cloying chicken satay on a Chinese mixed hors d'oeuvres platter.
Fish is a cornerstone of Indonesian cuisine, and the Ikan Arsik—cod cooked with andaliman pepper and turmeric—was a highlight. The spices were complex but not overpowering, making the fish the star of the show. It’s a dish that speaks of care and understanding, of how to balance bold flavors without losing the essence of the main ingredient. The chef-patron proudly explained it was his beloved mother’s recipe (or perhaps, his mother’s beloved recipe, we didn’t ask).
The Bebek Goreng Madura Bumbu Hitam was perhaps the most rewarding dish we tried (it’s always worth ordering the menu item with the longest name). A duck leg, fried to a crisp and served with two fiery sambal sauces, crisp lettuce, and radish looked familiar enough but had an unexpected depth of flavor. The condiments are unapologetically intense—one was hot, the other, very hot—but with a subtlety and complexity to the heat that makes it more than just a test of one’s tolerance for spice. Nevertheless, we were glad of our waitress’ gentle guidance on which dishes were hottest so we could pace ourselves.
For something completely different, the Gado-Gado provided a welcome contrast. This robust vegetable salad, topped with tofu, seitan, and eggs is a treasure trove in a dish. The peanut sauce, which ties the dish together, was creamy without being cloying, allowing the freshness of the vegetables to come through. It’s an introduction to Indonesian cuisine that doesn’t rely on overwhelming the senses but is rich in color and texture.
Toba is more than just an Indonesian restaurant; it’s an exploration of a cuisine that is still finding its place in the UK. The team here has taken on the challenge of introducing these flavors to a London audience, and they’ve done so with respect for both tradition and the palate of their diners. The result is a menu that offers something for everyone—whether you’re new to Indonesian food or a seasoned enthusiast. If you’re in Mayfair and looking for something different, Toba is well worth a visit. It’s a reminder of the culinary diversity that exists beyond the more familiar tastes of Southeast Asia, and a chance to experience the richness of Indonesian food in a setting that is both welcoming and refined.
