Article by Amal H.A. Mohammed | Photography by Janna Tamargo Published October 10, 2024
The Green Jewel of Egyptian Cuisine
Cairo, the capital of Egypt, and the home of the oldest and most mysterious civilizations on earth, today stands as an aging, exhausted city that is difficult to navigate for non-Arabic speakers. Finding your way here as a food lover seeking an authentic culinary experience is quite challenging.
Although it might not be as globally recognized or widely promoted as cuisines from countries like Italy or France, Egyptian cuisine has a rich history and unique dishes, one of the most popular of which is Mulukhiyah. Well-known food bloggers and world travelers often asked Cairo taxi drivers about their favorite dish, and almost every time, the answer was the same: "mulukhiyah."
Internationally known as Nalta Jute or Jute Mallow, mulukhiyah is a leafy green vegetable that holds a special position in Egyptian cuisine. It has a distinctive flavor and dense texture due to the presence of pectin and hemicellulose—natural gums that give it a sticky, gummy consistency when wet. In addition to its delicious taste, mulukhiyah has many health benefits. Packed with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, this leafy green is a nutritional powerhouse. It is an excellent source of iron, calcium, and vitamin C, making it a vital component of a balanced diet. Not surprisingly, regular consumption of mulukhiyah has been linked to various health benefits, including improved digestion, boosted immunity, and reduced inflammation. Its high fiber content also helps promote satiety and supports weight management.
A Dish of Cultural Identity and Heritage
For Egyptians, Mulukhiyah is not only a staple in households but also a dish that signifies cultural identity and heritage. Many Egyptians have their unique recipes and preparation methods, which they passed down through generations. Often flavored with garlic and coriander, mulukhiyah can be served with rice or bread and typically accompanies a variety of meats at lunch which is the main meal that Egyptians usually eat in the late afternoon. Egyptian family traditions and geography also determine what accompanies mulukhiyah. In coastal cities such as Alexandria, locals eat it with shrimp. In remote rural areas of the country, residents consume it with boiled rabbits. Cairenes usually eat mulukhiyah with chicken or on its own with chunks of bread dipped in it. Mulukhiyah is sometimes mixed with rice but is not eaten with a spoon like soup.
Although its annual crop is harvested in November after six to eight weeks of planting, Egyptians eat mulukhiyah all year round. They buy it in large quantities and dry the leaves, then crush them into powder, which they can cook with garlic at any time of the year. In South Egypt, this dish is called "Shalao-Lao" and is said to have roots back in ancient Egypt. Ancient Egyptians used to dry different types of vegetables, and archaeological excavations have uncovered remnants of jute plants and leaves, suggesting that they were cultivated and utilized in ancient diets. Unfortunately, there isn’t enough information available about how they ate or cooked it.
The Legendary Mulukhiyah Decrees of Caliph El Hakim bi-Amr Allah
One of the most famous Mulukhiyah stories from the Islamic era involves the Fatimid Caliph El Hakim bi-Amr Allah, who ruled from 996 to 1021 AD. He was known for his eccentricity and authoritarianism, and there are quite a few legends and folk tales centering on his draconian actions and quirks. According to popular lore, El Hakim bi-Amr Allah was known for his unusual edicts and punishments, which often included severe measures for what he deemed disrespectful behavior. One day, while walking through the streets of Cairo, he overheard a group of people discussing the merits of Mulukhiyah. Intrigued, he summoned the citizens to a public gathering to proclaim his love for the vegetable.
During this gathering, El Hakim declared Mulukhiyah to be the official vegetable of Egypt and announced that anyone caught disrespecting it would face severe consequences. His fascination with the dish was further amplified by the tales of its health benefits and cultural significance.
The caliph's decree led to an unexpected surge in Mulukhiyah's popularity across Egypt. Citizens began incorporating the vegetable into their daily diets, and it quickly transformed from a regional delicacy to a national staple. Over time, it became a symbol of national pride and culinary heritage, celebrated in homes and feasts alike.
However, there exists another tale about the same caliph, which portrays a rather different kind of relationship with the vegetable. The story goes that Al-Hakim banned Mulukhiyah, although the reasons behind the ban are subject to debate. Some historians say he considered the vegetable to be an aphrodisiac, which conflicted with his puritanical views. Others suggest that after consuming Mulukhiyah, he had visions that led him to see it as a vegetable associated with negative implications, resulting in a decree against its cultivation and consumption. However, the ban was reportedly lifted later and Mulukhiyah regained its status as a beloved dish of Egyptian culture.
Mulukhiyah also frequently appears in Egyptian proverbs. One of the most common Egyptian proverbs is, "Your fate, oh mulukhiyah, is to end up under the mortar and pestle," which is a colorful way of saying that something or someone is destined for a certain outcome, often an unpleasant one because the traditional way to eat Mulukhiyah is after it has been finely chopped.
